AMR CPC Upgrade Installation Guide | AMR Performance
Step-by-step instructions for removing your factory CPC and installing the AMR CPC upgrade. Take your time, keep your hardware organized, and work clean — the CPC is a security-coded module.
Before you touch anything
Disconnect the negative (-) battery terminal and let the vehicle sit for 15-20 minutes before touching the CPC. Working on a live module can damage it or set permanent fault codes.
Tools required
- 10mm socket with a short extension and ratchet
- T30 driver (some brackets use 10mm fasteners instead)
- Plastic trim / panel pry tools
- A small tray to keep fasteners organized
Step 1 — Before you begin
- Unlock the vehicle and fully lower the driver and passenger windows, so you're never locked out with the battery disconnected.
- Disconnect the negative (-) battery terminal and let the vehicle sit for 15-20 minutes to discharge residual voltage.
Step 2 — Access the factory CPC
- Open the passenger-side door and remove the foot rug / floor mat.
- Locate the plastic kick panel in the passenger footwell (under the carpet / ECU tray). On AMG models this is the right-side kick area.
- Using a 10mm socket, remove the kick panel fasteners and lift the panel away.
- The CPC module will be visible once the panel is removed.
Step 3 — Disconnect the CPC
Three connectors secure the harness to the module — two large and one small.
Confirm the module before you unplug anything. Check the factory sticker — it must read "CPC_NG". If it reads "DRVUNG" (AMG Drive Unit), stop: that is a different module and is not the CPC this upgrade replaces.
- For each connector, press the lock tab, then pull straight back on the connector body — no prying on the wires.
- Inspect the pins for corrosion or bent terminals; clear any dust as needed.
Step 4 — Remove the CPC module
- Remove the bracket fasteners (typically T30 or 10mm) and keep the hardware organized.
- Push down on the CPC from behind the bracket, and from the side, to release the factory push clip, then slide the module out.
Tip: photograph the factory label before you set the module aside — the part number and software identifiers are useful if support needs to confirm your module.
Step 5 — Install the AMR CPC upgrade
- Slide the new replacement unit into the factory bracket. Listen for the slight click as it seats.
- Reconnect the three factory harness clips until you hear and feel the positive click on each one.
A connector that isn't fully locked causes intermittent no-starts and stored faults. Make sure each of the three clicks home before moving on.
Step 6 — Reassemble and reconnect
- Reinstall the factory kick panel.
- Replace the insulation / carpet and the kick and sill trims.
- Reconnect the negative (-) battery terminal and tighten the clamp.
- Turn the ignition on (don't crank) for about 30 seconds to let modules wake, then start the vehicle and confirm normal operation with no warning lamps.
Before you drive — quick check
- AMR CPC fully seated in the factory bracket (clicked home)
- All three harness connectors locked (positive click on each)
- Kick panel, carpet, and trims reinstalled
- Negative battery terminal reconnected and tight
- Engine starts and idles with no warning lamps
Frequently Asked Questions
- How do I know I'm working on the right module?
- The factory sticker must read CPC_NG. If it reads DRVUNG (AMG Drive Unit), that is a different module — do not remove it. Contact AMR Performance if you are unsure.
- Do I need any coding or programming after installing the AMR CPC?
- No on-car coding is required — the AMR CPC is supplied ready to install. Just confirm all connectors are fully seated before starting the vehicle.
- The car won't start or shows faults after install. What should I check?
- Re-check that all three harness connectors clicked fully home and that the negative battery terminal is tight. A partially seated connector is the most common cause. If it persists, contact support.
- Why upgrade the CPC in the first place?
- The factory CPC caps torque, boost, and speed independently of the ECU, so an ECU calibration alone cannot release the full potential of the vehicle.
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